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ilist123
Junior Member

119 Posts

Posted - 10/12/2004 :  3:19:54 PM  Show Profile
I own a Champion 194 Fishunter which has a fiberglass hull and I would like to add them in the gunnel. My question is, would the water that gets into the bottom of the holders and into the hull go out the rear drain hole or be able to be pumped out, or is the hull sealed and there would be no way for that water to get out? Also, would it mess with the strengh of the boat at all? Thanks for any replys.



Edited by - ilist123 on 10/12/2004 16:07:05

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hogheaven
Junior Member

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 10/12/2004 :  4:32:26 PM  Show Profile
you can buy some perko flush mount rod holders that have a flap to cover the hole when not in use. they are chrome plated zinc, brass or bronze. and sell from about $30 to $50 each, they are high quality. i would not think that they would damage the integrity of you hull by installing them.

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sullivan504
Average Member

USA
137 Posts

Posted - 10/12/2004 :  5:04:52 PM  Show Profile

I don't know how that Champion is laid out, but I'd be VERY cautious before breaking out a hole saw. Your boat is NOT going to break in half because you installed rod holders, but that would probably void your hull warranty. Done properly, the installation could even make that part of your hull stronger than it was before (but that's hardly worth the effort). Apart from sharp angles near the transom, this sort of modification is the sort of place that stress cracks and gelcoat spiderwebs are most likely to form.

If you can't access the deck from underneath, you probably don't want to put the rodholders there. You never know if there's a cable chase hidden under there, but that will be the first thing your drill bitt finds. Also, you can plug the tops of the rod holders, but what about capping off the bottom? Although not much runoff or drippage would get down there, there could be enough to compromise your flotation foam. I'd say that you need to get a look between the hull and inner liner before you do anything... maybe you can remove another piece of hardware on the gunwhale to get a look in there?

Whenever installing deck hardware like this, try to put in a backer plate of marine plywood or a poly material such as King StarBoard, with plenty of 3M 5200 to hold everything tight. If you're cutting through core material, be sure to seal any exposed edges with epoxy. Finally, be sure to tape off the area that you're cutting and countersink any small bolt-holes so the gelcoat won't break out.




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hogheaven
Junior Member

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 10/12/2004 :  6:30:26 PM  Show Profile
installing rod holders might void the hull warranty, what are you smoking sullivan???? get a grip. the rod holders are intalled on the top of the cap. not the hull!!!!! as far as backing them up with plywood or starboard, get a grip again, there will not be enough pressure on them to matter. i don't think that he will be trolling for marlin in a champion!!!!

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sullivan504
Average Member

USA
137 Posts

Posted - 10/13/2004 :  11:17:33 AM  Show Profile
Hogheaven--

I'll admit that hardly anyone ever needs to use their hull warranty, but if the dealer is looking for an excuse to NOT honor the warranty, they will take anything they can get. Check the fine print; many hull warranties even restrict mods to the inner liner. Search this forum and www.thehulltruth.com for some horror stories-- I can think of one complaint in particular that was pretty darn similar (at Travis), and the owner wound up having to sue to have repairs made to his nearly-new transom under the warranty. If in doubt, why risk it? Have the dealer do the work.

I also recommended caution because I don't know the original poster... ilist123 could be a brilliant handyman, or a duffer. Face it: once the hole is drilled, it's too late to change your mind. I worked in a boat yard for five years and have been doing fiberglass work since 1988, so I've seen plenty of well-intentioned mistakes.

The backing plate is a good idea for any place on the boat where you are installing hardware. I've repaired a lot of gelcoat cracks that could have been avoided by reinforcing the area and counter-sinking the bolt holes.

As far as the forces acting on the fiberglass, keep in mind that a lot of top caps are nonstructural, using as little as 3/8" of woven roving and/or chopped glass. This will flex under light loads. Now add a stiff rod into that sticks out five feet from the rod holder and put three pounds of pressure on the end. Ever heard of torque, or "foot-pounds" of pressure? That's enough to crack the gelcoat any day-- not a structural issue, but when you plunk down $30k for a bay boat, don't tell me that you don't care about maintaining its cosmetics.






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BigEasyRealtor
Advanced Member

USA
961 Posts

Posted - 10/13/2004 :  11:23:10 AM  Show Profile
Check eBay for those rodholders.

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ilist123
Junior Member

119 Posts

Posted - 10/14/2004 :  09:29:05 AM  Show Profile
quote:

Hogheaven--

I'll admit that hardly anyone ever needs to use their hull warranty, but if the dealer is looking for an excuse to NOT honor the warranty, they will take anything they can get. Check the fine print; many hull warranties even restrict mods to the inner liner. Search this forum and www.thehulltruth.com for some horror stories-- I can think of one complaint in particular that was pretty darn similar (at Travis), and the owner wound up having to sue to have repairs made to his nearly-new transom under the warranty. If in doubt, why risk it? Have the dealer do the work.

I also recommended caution because I don't know the original poster... ilist123 could be a brilliant handyman, or a duffer. Face it: once the hole is drilled, it's too late to change your mind. I worked in a boat yard for five years and have been doing fiberglass work since 1988, so I've seen plenty of well-intentioned mistakes.

The backing plate is a good idea for any place on the boat where you are installing hardware. I've repaired a lot of gelcoat cracks that could have been avoided by reinforcing the area and counter-sinking the bolt holes.

As far as the forces acting on the fiberglass, keep in mind that a lot of top caps are nonstructural, using as little as 3/8" of woven roving and/or chopped glass. This will flex under light loads. Now add a stiff rod into that sticks out five feet from the rod holder and put three pounds of pressure on the end. Ever heard of torque, or "foot-pounds" of pressure? That's enough to crack the gelcoat any day-- not a structural issue, but when you plunk down $30k for a bay boat, don't tell me that you don't care about maintaining its cosmetics.








Makes alot of sense to me. I would like to think that I am more of a "brilliant handyman" before the other, so doing it right would not be a problem. But, I think I will find another way to handle my rods. Thanks for passing on other iusses to think about.

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ilist123
Junior Member

119 Posts

Posted - 10/14/2004 :  09:34:49 AM  Show Profile
Thanks for all the replys and comments, I'm going to look at getting a clamp on type so I will not have to worry about the voiding of warranties or messing up the finish. So off to West Marine I go. Thanks again.

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